Wonder and Wander

Between a day trip and and a quick overnight before our long train to Switzerland, we were able to get a day and a half in Florence. I wish it could have been longer! You would think that, with 6 months abroad, we would make it to everything we wanted to see. Not a chance–this world we live in is pretty big!

We took an easy train from Castelfiorentino to Florence, just a 45 minute trip. It felt like a luxury to get on a train without luggage. We hunted down some panini for lunch, and then headed for the Duomo. It’s amazing how Florence immediately gives off such a different vibe from Rome. Whereas Rome is lively and gritty and drowning in ancient history, Florence feels more restrained and cultured, clearly proud of its Renaissance heritage.

Opinions divide as to whether the facade of the Duomo is beautiful or overdone to the point of tackiness…I’m torn myself. But the dome is indisputably magnificent, an architectural wonder in an age when the discoveries of the ancient world were shrouded in mystery. After studying a little Florentine art that week, the Baptistry doors by Ghiberti were especially impressive.

Unfortunately, you can’t just get a ticket to climb to the top anymore, and there were no advance tickets available for the time we were there. I guess I’m just saving that experience for my kids to discover on their own.

Our day trip was focused on the Uffizi, the Mecca of Renaissance art. After the art overdose of the Vatican, the Uffizi felt almost manageable in size. I will say that visiting art museums with curious American children is a whole different ballgame than perusing on your own or with an adult. As a homeschooling mom, I’ve been working hard to cultivate curiosity and a love of learning in my kids. The downside is that I as their teacher become the Fount of Knowledge, and they are used to getting all their questions answered by yours truly. I needed an expectation adjustment for myself, as well as instructions taped to my forehead: “I don’t know–go read the sign.” The other reality is that parenting know no boundaries and no time-outs. I found myself embroiled in a significant parenting conversation in the late medieval period of art, and it continued into the High Renaissance. These are the days, and these are the moments, and I have to be willing to take them whenever and however they come. That’s hard to accept at times, especially when you were planning on quietly contemplating the art of the ages.

The great art in Florence is somewhat spread out–no one-stop-art-shopping. We were able to scoot in and see David right before closing time. My mom was a little underneath at how many pictures I took of David when I was in college, but he really is that stunning. Michaelangelo’s ability to freehand sculpt with such confidence and beauty is a wonder.

Florence claims to be the birthplace of gelato (just don’t say that in front of a Sicilian), so we had an obligation to sample from the best. We finished Florence (and Italy) right with huge gelato cones–the best we had from our entire 2.5 weeks in Italy. It also seemed like we had traded pizza for panini. That was fine–we had eaten plenty of pizza, and the panini were spectacular!

The generosity of Italian life won us over in our weeks there–great food, strong coffee, an abundance of history and art, kind and welcoming people, lovely scenery, and vibrant cities. I threw my coin into the Trevi Fountain again: I can only hope it works as well as it did last time.