Wonder and Wander

Vance’s colleague in France is a complete sweetheart–so warm and welcoming to us. She has three older boys, and their family took a sabbatical to Israel many years ago, so she knows what this family time means for us. Her husband also has ALS, so she is very sympathetic to health issues. She has been so encouraging with our halting and imperfect French.

Beatrice is originally from the Mediterranean coast of France, and she and her siblings still own the family house, which they’ve had since 1749. Yes, you read that right. When she offered it to us for a vacation, you can bet your boots that we said yes. We were glad to get out of town by the time our dates came up–we had a second heat wave even worse than the first. It was 112 on the worst day. We sheltered at the pool, the mirror, and our shuttered house… And we survived.

On the way to Beatrice’s house, we stopped for a quick visit to Carcassone. It is a beautifully and carefully restored medieval walled city. It’s definitely got it’s share of theme park opportunism, but it is also a legit piece of history.

After the heat of Bordeaux, the cool breezes coming off the mountains was refreshing. We walked the walls of the fortress, entered through the restored drawbridge and portcullis, and wandered the twisting cobblestone streets. We are outside, and I was sure to try the cassoulet, which is the specialty of the region. White beans, duck confit, and sausage baked until crispy–it was delicious, but not summery. It was the kind of meal that sticks to your ribs.

The kids and I took a tour through the old castle, and I was amazed at how much detail was available for us to see. I think it is the best example of medieval strategy and architecture that I’ve seen.

The kids loved learning about the portcullis, the murder holes, the temporary battlements erected during an attack, and all the ramparts.

Carcassone was an old Roman fortress that was strengthened during the medieval period. The city had become a haven for the Cathar heresy, and the pope decided to take the city back while on crusade. The Pope’s army successfully beseiged the city and took it in 1209–the only time Carcassone was ever conquered.

Carcassone eventually passed into French hands, where it functioned as an important fortress guarding the Spanish border. It then fell into disrepair until the mid 1800s, when a famous French architect became obsessed with returning the crumbling fortress to it’s former strength.

Eve of course fell in love with all the medieval costumes and trinkets. Isaac spent time admiring the knives and swords and maces in the weaponry shop, and Claire loved the parchment, quills, and wax seals. It was a pretty town to simply meander through, admiring the old half-timbered houses and the ancient stained glass in the church.

We found it hard to get a taxi the morning we left, and Uber doesn’t run in Carcassone. We waited as long as we could for our taxi, but finally had to give it up and walk the 20 min trip to the station in the rain. Of course it was the one time we hadn’t brought our rain jackets! I was really proud of the kids. They didn’t whine or get needy–they just made it happen. Travel has made them tougher in some ways. We got to the station on time, wet but not drenched. I had planned on buying lunch near the station, but there wasn’t time. Fortunately, we were able to make do with the random bits of bread, cheese, and nuts that we still had. Enough is as good as a feast, as they say.

It was raining in Carcassone, but it was pouring in Banyuls-sur-Mer when we arrived. We tried to orient ourselves as best we could in the tiny station, and then dashed down hill towards the house.

Although Beatrice’s place has been in her family since 1749, the house is much older, perhaps from the 1400s. As an old family house, it’s full of nooks and crannies with half forgotten heirlooms and vestiges of a thousand summer vacations, family reunions, and haphazard renovations. No one in the US that I know has a family house with such an incredible legacy, and it was a privelige to get to stay there. It wasn’t fancy, but it was full of story.

The house, being ancient, didn’t have many windows or comfy family rooms, so we spent most of our time where we were supposed to: in the protected rocky cove the town is built around. The water is clear and cool and green. The kids strapped on find and swam to the rafts anchored in the bay. Eve forgot her bathing suit (clearly I hadn’t supervised packing very well–must have been the heat). Bathing suits were expensive, so we let her swim a la française–in her shorts. She was shy at first, but she quickly warmed up to the idea. And nobody cared.

We explored the rocky shore, snorkeled and swam and swam and swam. We ate well from the kitchen that time forgot, read Harry Potter and raced each other to assemble a jigsaw star puzzle. It was perfect.

Banyuls-sur-Mer was the quintessential French beach vacation. We were surrounded by French families on holiday, and it was priceless to be tucked away in such a beautiful, non-touristy spot. And although we’ve been to some amazing places, must of it doesn’t feel like a getaway. This was just what we needed. Thank you, Beatrice!